CLAIM: intervention

traceability The lack of traceability presents a major governability challenge for cashmere commodity chains. As fibres are aggregated before they reach processors, it is difficult to incentivize (or increase accountability) for quality and sustainability at the supplier level. Based on this problem attribution, successful traceability measures should support more sustainable cashmere production.

direct to consumer marketing Companies that engage in a direct relationship with their consumers can build brand loyalty but also develop an efficient, responsive distribution system that can reduce overall costs. These two factors can potentially reinforce #transformative-values (through a 'personal' relationship with the consumer) and support #fair-trade (by passing along greater profits to the supplier).

trade agreements Legislated trade agreements can be used to encourage sustainable production, by reducing tariffs on certified goods. This process is similar to some market-based initiatives but takes place at an intergovernental level (or may be applied unilaterally by a major importer).

livestock tax Government should impose a tax on grazing livestock to ensure that the ecological costs of grazing are included in commodity prices.

recycled cashmere It is desirable to reuse and recycle textiles in general. Cashmere garments may be considered sustainable if they are created from post-consumer recycled fibres (i.e., without virgin fibres).

disruption To achieve ethical and sustainable production it is necessary to 'disrupt' the cashmere industry.

grading Better sorting and grading of cashmere is necessary to achieve sustainability.

local processing Cashmere needs to be produced locally (in Mongolia) in order to be sustainable. Local processing -- as opposed to export of raw cashmere -- creates added value without increasing actual cashmere production levels. It also generates employment. Cashmere processing is a major option for poverty reduction.

renewable export Cashmere can allow Mongolia to escape its dependence on mineral exports.

social business Cashmere businesses can contribute to sustainable development if they place social impacts ahead of profitability.

fatalism There is nothing to be done that can resolve the issue of overgrazing.

integration An integrated supply chain provides the means to monitor and control all aspects of production, including sustainability. See #traceability.

transparency There is a need for communication across the value chain, including with consumers.

circular fashion See https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/our-work/activities/make-fashion-circular. Circular fashion is a specific form of #second-hand-clothing use, as it involves fashion items.

long term relationships Long-term business relationships are likely to be more 'ethical' than short-term, anonymous relationships. This may involve a reference to 'trusted partners'.

influencer marketing See also #transformative-values.

breeding Sustainable production requires improved livestock breeds, or selective breeding.

collective action Collective action by herders can overcome #rangeland-degradation. Rangeland degradation may be explicitly attributed to a #tragedy-of-the-commons, however collective action can also take forms that are inspired by #fair-trade or other frames. Cooperatives, pasture user groups, and similar collectivities may be assumed as the ideal base units of participation in #development initiatives.

herd management Goat herds should be managed to optimize efficiency and productivity, by culling older animals, maximizing revenue from secondary products, investing in better livestock, etc.

enclosure Enclosure of rangelands for hay production or intensive pasture grazing can improve the productivity and sustainability of livestock herding.

supporting designers Appeals to support young, brave, honest designers for the stories they tell through their lives and their creativity.

no cashmere Fashion retailers should refrain from carrying (virgin) cashmere garments as cashmere production is inherently unsustainable.

development Designers and retailers can achieve sustainable procurement by supporting and working with conventional international development initiatives. Such initiatives will involve collaborations between government, non-governmental organizations, international donors, development agencies, technical consultants, and others. This work is designed to 'help' and 'empower' herders and to 'improve' their livelihoods.

blockchain Blockchain technology can improve the #traceability of cashmere. More broadly, it is linked to an approach in which sustainability is defined as a technical problem (i.e., one that is amenable to technical solutions) and to an association of advanced technology with development. “A pilot with technology provider Covergence.tech used Ethereumbased blockchain technology to interact with over 70 different herders and 8 cooperatives.” (Huang, 2019, p. 3) The latter part of the article outlines the pilot, whereby herders used RFID tags and an Android app to label their cashmere bundles. See also the Convergence.tech report.

branding A corollary of #luxury-cashmere and #fair-trade. Sustainable commodities need to be distinguished from mass-produced ones. The distinct branding creates value that may both support higher retail prices (premium) and provide an incentive to producers. Sustainability branding in the Mongolian context can be associated with #nationalism, as a 'national brand'.

livestock insurance Mitigating risk can improve herder livelihoods. Livestock insurance, as a financialization or risk, shifts mitigation response away from livestock to economic capital. Insurance can thus accommodate smaller herd sizes.

biodiversity conservation Herders must engage in conservation activities to offset the impacts of livestock grazing.

rangeland management Better rangeland management can improve or guarantee sustainability of cashmere production.

hand weaving Textiles that are woven by hand contribute to producer livelihoods, are of high quality, and can fetch high prices as scarce goods.

technical expertise Technical expert knowledge (and experts) can provide guidance for sustainable development and production. This includes a reliance on science, technology, and engineering.

poverty reduction Sustainable cashmere can reduce poverty.

governance Sustainable production requires a strong regulatory regime. Governance may be combined with private sector action, but self-governance is inadequate where commodity chains are fragmented and located across multiple sites.

second hand clothing Clothing reuse can reduce waste.